I tried it on dpns and ended up frogging it - several times.
Then I got to the last stitch on my circular needles (I use my circulars for flat knitting. I have better control with them), pulled the loop through and before cinching it down, decided to try on the glove to see how it fit. To say it didn't would be an understatement!
So....I frogged it back to bare yarn and started over. Tried to use the dpns again and again I frogged it. So after about 6 times of frogging this same blasted yarn, I went to my circulars, but changed size and knit the thing flat and then sewed up the seam. As I went, I changed the pattern so that it didn't end up with a huge bulge at the wrist. This new pattern is fitted and I liked how it turned out. Now if I can just get the second one done in time for Christmas - it's a present for someone and so I have a deadline. I've got the ribbing done on #2 and just started the glove itself, but since it's 2am, I'm going to go to bed. Well....after I finish this blog.
Here's the new pattern by yours truly:
Materals: approx. 2.5 oz worsted weight yarn - I used the Wallyworld $2 skein of acrylic - the big one and have enough to do several more pairs. Actually, this is left over from the slipper/socks that I flat knitted for my son for Christmas and still will have enough for a pair of these gloves.
Size 2 or 3 dpn or flat knitting is your choice. If you're not good at using dpns, do yourself a favor and knit it flat.
(The first time I did this pattern, I used size 5 and it turned out ok. I did decrease some stitches around where the ribbing and glove meet - to get rid of some of the bulk, but I do like the new pattern better.)
Gauge: I need to check this in daylight. The yarn is black and with my lighting, it's hard to count. Best I can see right now is 6 stitches to an inch and 9 rows to an inch. I think the gauge will change. For some reason, probably trying to learn to use dpns, my stitching was SO tight it was miserable to knit. With the second glove, I've loosened the stitching and it's going much better. I will measure both pieces when the sun comes up and get back to you. I'll also put "Edited" on the title so you know I've changed or confirmed the gauge.
Needle for finishing.
I used a size 2 needle and casted on 36 (and added 8 stitches at start of glove – after ribbing is done this shapes it to the hand so side isn't puckered or sticking out.)
Work in K1, P1 for 3" to 5" I do 5" because I like a longer cuff.
Row 1 : K4, M1, K8, M1, K8, M1, K8, M1, K4 (To M1 (make 1) I knit the stitch like I would normally, then pulling the stitch up so it's a larger stitch than normal, I twist the needle so that it makes the yarn tight on the needle, then go back into the stitch I just used and reknit the stitch so that you've got two stitches from one knit stitch. The two stitches will look like a v with the needle going through the top of the v. Each leg of the v is a new stitch, the bottom of the v is from the row that is on the needle.
Row 2 : Purl
Row 3: K6, M1, K8, M1, K8, M1, K8, M1, K6
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: Knit
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: Knit (Optional - if you need more room before starting thumb gusset, which I do.)
Row 8: Purl (Optional - if you did a row 7, you need to do this as a purl row)
Row 7: Knit 14/17/18/21 stitches. Place marker, K 2, Place Marker, Knit to end (If you used the optional two rows, then the bracketed number is the row you're on.)
Row 8: Purl
Row 9: K across to markers slip marker, Increase in each of the two stitches (4 stitches), slip marker, knit across.
Row 10 , Purl
Row 11 : Knit to marker, slip marker, inc in first stitch, k in following stitches, inc in last stitch (6 stitches), knit across .
Row 12 : Purl
Row 13 : Knit to marker, slip marker, inc in first stitch, k in following stitches, inc in last stitch (8 stitches), knit across
Row 14 : Purl to marker slip marker, knit 8, slip marker, Purl to end
Row 15 : Knit to marker, slip marker, Increase in first stitch, knit to last stitch and increase (10 stitches), knit across row
Row 16 : Purl across to marker, slip marker, Knit 10, slip marker, purl across
Row 17 : Knit across to marker, slip marker, increase in first stitch, knit to last stitch and increase (12 stitches), slip marker, knit across
Row 18 : Purl to marker, slip marker, knit 12, slip marker, purl across
Row 19 : Knit to marker, remover marker, bind off 12 (knit first stitch, knit next stitch and then slide the first stitch over the second stitch). Do this to marker, remove marker, then slip that last stitch back on with the rest of the to-be-knit stitches, knit it and all the others to end. (This binding off and reknitting that last slipped stitch keeps a hole from forming in bound-off area.)
Row 20 : Purl across stitches
*Row 21 , 23 : Knit (25 is what I use, but I like the longer length)
*Rows 22 , 24 : Purl (26 if you did 25, then you need to do this row too)
Repeat from* for number of rows you want for palm length(remember to include the 6 rows below in calculating your length), ending with purl row.
If you want a tighter top, do six rows in K1, P1 ribbing and bind off. I do the K1 P1 it keeps the end from rolling so much and so that it keeps its shape better.
Otherwise, knit six rows even and bind off.
Sew up side seam (if knitting flat) and fasten off end.
To do this in the round, just knit all the stitches on all the rows EXCEPT when, on the purl rows it tells you to knit those few stitches between the markers. Those between the markers you will purl, so it turns out looking right and having some support at the end of the thumb.